Cemitério Dos Prazeres, Lisbon, Portugal

Miss your stop on the Number 28 cable car route in Lisbon, Portugal, and you could find yourself here — not as a resident, but as a visitor.

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I arrived at this cemetery on an overcast afternoon, quite accidentally, and was captivated by the crowded jumble of single tombs and family mausoleums arranged on narrow cobblestone paths, mimicking the Alfama district neighborhoods I had seen earlier in the week. The damp, flat light from the cloudy sky lent an extra measure of spookiness to the place, which I enhanced with some different photo filters:

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Some of these structures are hundreds of years old, and they hold the remains of families both rich and (relatively) poor:

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Many of the mausoleums have doors with glass windows so you can see inside.  There is often a chair and a small altar inside, I presume for the living to come visit with their ancestors and other departed loved ones.  The structures contain shelves upon which coffins are stacked.  While I could view the coffins through some of the windows, it seemed disrespectful to photograph them.  I found an empty mausoleum, however, so you can get an idea of what they’re like inside:

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This formerly-used space begs the question: what do you have to do (or not do) to get your deceased family kicked out of a mausoleum?  I like to think that maybe their descendants came into some money and had a larger or nicer final resting place constructed.

Surprisingly, this cemetery turned out to be my favorite “find” in Lisbon. Mostly because it was so unexpected, but also beautiful and full of history and love and heartbreak. It made me think of my mom, and those who’ve died in Operation Enduring Freedom, and the 236 lost on flight MH370 (who, as of this writing, have not yet been found).

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Rest in peace, all you departed souls.

MM

Around Lisbon: Baixa, Alfama, and Saldanha, Part 2

It isn’t a European city without fountains and statues and cobblestones:

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(Note: I do not recommend walking across this plaza after two glasses of wine)

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Impressive architecture:

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And, of course, a castle:

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Lisbon can be a challenging city to navigate.  The streets are twisty with long names, and they change names often.  Plus, the street signs/names are carved in stone and mounted on the sides of buildings, often the worse for wear:

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I had fun getting lost and stumbling across cool stuff I wasn’t even looking for like vintage neon signs:

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Hidden alleys:

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And sweeping city views:

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I’ll share my very favorite accidental find in a future post.

MM

Around Lisbon: Baixa, Alfama, and Saldanha, Part 1

Lisbon, Portugal, is such a beautiful city, and a perfect break from Bagram Airfield, Afghanistan.  However, the buildings are often strangely like some of the older stone structures at BAF, with years of wear-and-tear evident in the crumbling facades:

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Those doors are only 5 feet high!  I very much enjoyed seeing the various dwellings (such character!), many with tile work.  And I don’t believe there are two doors of the same size or style in the entire city:

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As you can see, the streets can be quite steep.  Whereas BAF is relentlessly flat, Lisbon is nothing but hills.  It was a delightful novelty to walk up and down hills all day for a change.  Some of the streets are so narrow and twisty and perilous, cars can’t use them and some are barely wide enough to allow passage of Lisbon’s iconic yellow cable cars:

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More coming in the next installment…

MM

Arrival in Lisbon, Portugal

I had no intentions of blogging about my Rest & Relaxation (R&R) leave in Portugal, but this place is simply too wonderful NOT to share!

After living in a shabby, windowless shipping container for over three months, going to my room at the Hilton DoubleTree Fontana Park Hotel was like a trip through a modern art exhibit:

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Notice how the room numbers are on the floor, not on the walls or doors.  It took me a while to figure that out.

My room had a very hard-edged outer-space-supervillian-lair vibe:

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No art, but lots of mirrors, concrete, and glossy black:

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Complete with open tub/shower weirdly lit from below with color-changing LEDs:

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My favorite part was the wall of windows and the terrace:

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Especially in the mornings with my coffee:

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Best surprise:  fabulous breakfast included!  Close runners up:  free wi-fi, luxuries in the room (fluffy robe and slippers, umbrella, espresso machine), and lovely wine shop one block away.

Feature I could really do without:  lighted magnifying mirror only slightly less powerful than a scanning electron microscope.  The only thing more awful than seeing your face that close up is hearing the sound of your horrified screams echoing in all 20,000 of your cavernous pores.

Decorating advice for anybody contemplating a daring toilet cubicle with two walls consisting of floor-to-ceiling mirrors and the other two walls (and door) made of black glass with a single 5-watt light fixture providing indirect illumination from behind a black ceiling panel:  don’t.  Trust me on this.

Lisbon is a wonderful city, and I’ll be sharing some beautiful sights in upcoming blogs.

MM

Camp Arif Jan, Kuwait

Since I’m on Rest & Relaxation (R&R) leave, I’ve invited a guest blogger to tell you about my Afghanistan-to-Portugal transition through Camp Arifjan, Kuwait:

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so blog, much honored!
very arifjan, many beige:

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so sandbag:

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such box:

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surprise spa!
wow pedicure:

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very haircut:

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such relax, amaze trip
finish blog, very thanks

doge

Doge (for MM)

Fighting Season

We’re at war, so every day is “fighting season,” but springtime brings warmer weather and the start of what’s called “fighting season” at Bagram Airfield.  Apparently it’s unpleasant or inconvenient for insurgents to carry out rocket attacks  when it’s cold or rainy, so wintertime attacks are concentrated during American holidays.  When the weather warms up and the snow melts out of the mountain passes allowing access for Taliban fighters, I’m told, we can expect IDF (indirect fire) much more frequently.   Oh, great.

First step in being ready for fighting season:  know your alert tones.

BAF Alert System

MASCAL means Mass Casualties; CBRN means Chemical, Biological, Radioactive, or Nuclear; HAZ MAT means Hazardous Materials; IBA means Individual Body Armor; FPCON means Force Protection Condition (different levels have different action protocols); and MOPP means Mission Oriented Protective Posture (different levels mean donning different protective gear). The Giant Voice is the Public Address system delivered via loudspeaker.

When you hear the “waves” alarm, you hit the deck, lay prostrate with your arms protecting your head, and wait anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes (depending on whom you ask).  If you haven’t heard the “all clear” by the time you’re done counting off the seconds, you beat feet to the nearest bunker.

Here’s a basic bunker built of reinforced concrete:

 

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The Jersey barriers at each end are about 4 feet high, so you can see that these bunkers are pretty snug.  Here’s a view of the inside:

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This one’s nice and clean, but there are no benches which means you’ll be crouching uncomfortably for quite a spell.  I’ve seen bunkers full of junk, or with benches but also with used condoms (ew) so you maybe don’t want to come into contact with those benches.  If you really luck out, you’re near a standing-height bunker.

Some bunkers have extra protection in the form of layers of sandbags:

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In high-traffic and high-population areas, you’ll find condo-style bunkers:

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You can see the peaked roofs of buildings called “B-huts” behind these bunkers.  B-huts are constructed of plywood, most of them are very old, and because of their age and construction they are considered a fire hazard:

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B-huts are being torn down by the hundreds these days as hardened buildings (concrete) are completed and occupied, but a very large proportion of the people at Bagram Airfield are still living and/or working in these structures.  You don’t want to be in a B-hut if an IDF hits: they offer no protection at all.

Less of a fire hazard but still no protection from rockets are the tents at BAF:

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We have lots of people living and working in tents like these.  Many hundreds more live and/or work in RLBs (relocatable buildings, basically stacks of shipping containers like my dorm building), which are only incrementally more protective than tents.  Hardened dorms and office spaces are being built, but many of these projects are behind schedule since essential components have been stuck at closed-down border crossings for months.  Additionally, the projected draw-down of the BAF population is considerably behind schedule (we were supposed to have about 8,000 fewer people by now than we currently have).  As the FOBs (Forward Operating Bases) close, their personnel are moving to BAF and, all too often, staying.

The idea that fighting season has started while we still have so many military, civilians, and contractors living and working in flimsy structures scares the hell out of me.  With so many FOBs closed there are fewer targets country-wide for the insurgents to attack, so we’re expecting even more IDF intensity than has been typical in past years.  The Afghan presidential election (April 5th) is also expected to ratchet up the violence.

So, everywhere I go I’m on the lookout for where’s the nearest bunker, the nearest fire extinguisher, the nearest exit, the nearest first aid kit.  Paranoia is becoming a way of life and adds to the pressure we all feel (both externally and internally applied) to get more hardened structures in place.

Stay safe, everybody.

MM

Meet My Peeps: Mr. Bill

We work with a lot of contractors here at Bagram Airfield, Afghanistan.  They provide continuity that we just can’t get with with military folks rotating in and out, and expertise that military and government civilians like me can’t provide.  One of contractors I’ve been privileged to work with these last three months is Mr. Bill:

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A retired civil servant who’s been on multiple deployments to places including Saudi Arabia, China, and South Korea, Mr. Bill can tackle any environmental job in anywhere in the world.  He’s performed environmental surveys at about 50 locations around Afghanistan.  Here’s a brief tour of a trip he took to Jalalabad (text and photos courtesy of Mr. Bill):

???????????????????????????????My corner office, it’s a beauty, commensurate with experience of course.

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Waiting for transport, hope I get a window seat.

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The commute, uh oh I have to use the bathroom, I’m in trouble.

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Hope I can find cheap parking.

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Made it to Jalalabad, where is the subway station?

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Hotel Afghanistan, room with a view please, do I get frequent flyer points here?

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The shopping mall, picture says it all.

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The view!

Mr. Bill knows how to find his way around the installations, and he’s been a great resource for institutional knowledge, as well as a lot of fun.  He’s always got a big grin on his face and is up for whatever good times are to be had, even if it means Christmas wishes from a porta-potty (with coworker Mr. Art):

Bill and Art

Unfortunately, we’ll be saying goodbye to Mr. Bill in a few days.  His company’s contract renewal included cutting some positions, so he’ll be heading home.  We’ll all miss him, and I will especially miss his bright smile, great stories, practical jokes, and professional contributions to the environmental mission here at BAF.

Take care, Mr. Bill, and Godspeed!

MM