Miss your stop on the Number 28 cable car route in Lisbon, Portugal, and you could find yourself here — not as a resident, but as a visitor.

I arrived at this cemetery on an overcast afternoon, quite accidentally, and was captivated by the crowded jumble of single tombs and family mausoleums arranged on narrow cobblestone paths, mimicking the Alfama district neighborhoods I had seen earlier in the week. The damp, flat light from the cloudy sky lent an extra measure of spookiness to the place, which I enhanced with some different photo filters:

Some of these structures are hundreds of years old, and they hold the remains of families both rich and (relatively) poor:

Many of the mausoleums have doors with glass windows so you can see inside.  There is often a chair and a small altar inside, I presume for the living to come visit with their ancestors and other departed loved ones.  The structures contain shelves upon which coffins are stacked.  While I could view the coffins through some of the windows, it seemed disrespectful to photograph them.  I found an empty mausoleum, however, so you can get an idea of what they’re like inside:

This formerly-used space begs the question: what do you have to do (or not do) to get your deceased family kicked out of a mausoleum?  I like to think that maybe their descendants came into some money and had a larger or nicer final resting place constructed.

Surprisingly, this cemetery turned out to be my favorite “find” in Lisbon. Mostly because it was so unexpected, but also beautiful and full of history and love and heartbreak. It made me think of my mom, and those who’ve died in Operation Enduring Freedom, and the 236 lost on flight MH370 (who, as of this writing, have not yet been found).

Rest in peace, all you departed souls.

MM